Now that’s what I call “football.”

We played football at school today. Like, the NFL variety. The kind you ironically don’t play with your feet.

Mind you: There is only one “football” here in Spain (and pretty much every other country in the world whose name doesn’t start with “U” and end with “nited States of America.” Fútbol. The game we call “soccer.” Perhaps you’ve heard of it.

Anyway, the point is that this country has virtually no idea that another game with the same name as theirs exists. Yes, they have heard of “fútbol norteamericano,” or “fútbol americano,” but in the same way that you may have heard of cricket, or jai-alai, or curling, or polo. They know that in America we have a sport that’s something like rugby, but they have a better idea of how to play Beethoven’s Fifth Symphony than how to play some good ole’ pigskin.

And can you blame them? What the heck is a down, or an interception, or pass interference, or roughing the kicker, or a safety, or a forward lateral, if you’ve never encountered anything similar? It’s like attending the first day of auto-mechanic school when you’ve never seen a car.

It had been an idea of mine to introduce our wonderful American game to the students and teachers at my Spanish school, but the lack of a proper football posed a major problem. Today, during the first hour of our two-hour lunch break — and yes, you read that correctly, we take two-hour lunch breaks and have another 30-minute ‘pause’ an hour earlier … definitely not in Kansas anymore — the subject of American football somehow came up, and within minutes I was on YouTube showing highlights of last year’s Packers-Vikings game to Juanjo, one of our male teachers. (That was the game when Favre returned to Lambeau field, if you recall.)

After explaining the more basic rules — four downs, ten yards for a first down, pass and running plays, turnovers, touchdowns, field goals, yada yada yada — I told Jaunjo (who I call “J.J.”) that I’d bring an American football back to Spain with me after my impending short visit home in December. He said that was cool and then headed off for the lunchroom.

But in a moment, he popped his head back in the door and held up, lo and behold, a football. Like, the thing that looks like this, with laces and brown paint and all. It was a plastic, toy-store kind of ball, far from “Officially Licensed National Football League” quality, but a football nonetheless — and properly filled with air!

Justin — the other American language and culture assistant at my school — and I saw that ball, and we looked at each other as if someone had plopped an authentic Thanksgiving Day feast in front of us. (Coincidentally, we will teach the students about Turkey Day and celebrate it in school this year. Actually, I think that’s how the subject of football originally surfaced; Justin and I agreed it was a necessity that the kids watch or learn about American football because it’s such an integral part of the holiday.)

“Dude,” Justin said to me in the most serious of tones of his strong Bostonian accent, “let’s go throw right $&*#!@+ now.”

We went out to throw in the middle of the fútbol playground. Well, one of the fútbol playgrounds. I’m not joking when I say that every single class in our school, from pre-school through sixth grade, has at least one soccer ball. Every single class. You can take away the pencils, the books, the desks, the chalkboards, even the chairs, but you will never take the soccer balls from the school without first fighting the student body, faculty, kitchen staff and cleaning crew to the death. I couldn’t be more serious about this.

But, as soon as that American football surfaced on the playground, it seemed as if someone had held up a cell phone in a Charlie Chaplin film from 1928. The second that football appeared, everything stopped. Justin and I started throwing to each other, all eyes trying to figure out this alien game we were playing. I ran a post pattern, he ran a slant. I faked a hand-off to him, then he ran a pump-and-go.

Then the kids wanted in. At first, only a handful congregated around us, asking to catch the ball — and it wasn’t pretty. I’ve seen brick walls with better hands than they did during their first few attempts. Justin entered the lunchroom, and I was left with Los Gigantes Pequeños (“The Little Giants“) in front of me.

And guess what? I’ll be damned if those kids didn’t pick it up like skipping rocks or playing tag. It may take years for them to learn English, but they could form a pretty decent Pee Wee team in a matter of weeks if they wanted. Because they’re so good at soccer — I’m bigger and stronger, but many of them already have better ball control than me, and I used to play a little — they can move. Their catching and throwing require some work, since they’ve never played hand-oriented sports, but some of them displayed real talent. This one girl, Carmen, couldn’t catch the ball if you put it on a tee, but once she picked it up, she looked like Barry Sanders … only, you know, in a Hello Kitty t-shirt.

Less than 10 minutes into what I can only assume was the first unofficial football practice in C.E.I.P. Santa Quiteria history, at least 15-20 kids were calling for the ball simultaneously. We executed a couple successful place kicks, had some hand-offs and laterals, and a few Hail Mary pass completions.

Then we scrimmaged. Was it anything close to any semblance of an organized game? Come on — Rome wasn’t built in a day, and neither was the National Football League.

But they got the gist of it alright: Guys vs. girls (of course I played on the girls team … because I like winning), and the objective was to get the ball from the other team however possible and keep it as long as possible. We all returned from our two-hour lunch break — and yes, you read that correctly — sweaty as old men in a full-power sauna, smiling from ear-to-ear-to-ear-to-ear, and physically drained.

Touchdown, Spain!

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Now you are Spanish

“Now you are Spanish!”

My new friend Javi yelled this into my ear Friday night, in the middle of a bar in downtown Madrid, while we danced arm-in-arm with a group of Spanish chicos and chicas (girls and boys), singing songs in a language I’m starting to learn, little by little (poco a poco). The bar was called “Mamá no lo sabe” — “Mother doesn’t know.”

What I didn’t know was why Javi chose that moment to tell me, “Now you are Spanish!” But it felt good. Damn good.

There’s always an adjustment when you move somewhere new, especially when that somewhere is an ocean away from your home continent, from the country that people here call “Ooh-sa.” (In my school, I’ve led multiple classes in chants of “U-S-A, U-S-A, U-S-A!” until they learn to say it correctly.)

When I first arrived here about a month ago, I had no phone or Internet access and needed to meet up with two Canadians in the Madrid airport so we could take a shuttle to our hostel together. Not knowing much Spanish made things a million times easier … Not. But Vicky and Sergio somehow found me, and we all arrived safely at Hostel One Centro, where we had to carry our bags up four flights of stairs that seemed like 20.

My original reservation at Hostel One was for one bed in a two-bed room for two nights. I ended up moving from there to a four-bed room, then to a six-bed one, and staying for over a week. And part of me wishes I had moved in permanently.

You see, Hostel One Centro might as well have been called “Hostel One Fiesta.” (Hostel One Party.) Because during our time there, that’s exactly what it was. One night, a group of Slovenians celebrated their last evening there. The next, some Serbians and Australians moved in. It was like an international revolving door, and half the people who walked in were interesting, awesome, and friends. A number of people in my program were staying there, so it was great for bonding. We were all searching for apartments (an agonizing process with many hilarious moments) during the days and enjoying Madrid during the nights. I hope to stay in contact with a number of people from the Hostel One Days. They were some of the best of times.

Eventually, after hours of phone calls, apartment visits, and two down-payments on places we ended up not taking, we signed a lease for an apartment (¨piso¨). Four of us inhabit a groovy pad on Calle Fuencarral: Nate and Claire, who attended the University of South Carolina together (the “other” Carolina), Kris, from Philadelphia, and Yours Truly. We pay a decent amount per month, but the joint boasts a spacious living room and kitchen, along with a balcony that overlooks Quevedo Plaza and our metro (subway) station. Three guys and one girl certainly makes for an interesting dynamic, but we’re all live-and-let-live types.

Before arriving, I was very unsure about my level of Spanish, what teaching would be like, and what I would be teaching because our program told us precious little about what to expect. Along with many others, apparently, I emailed the program coordinators before the trip with all my concerns, and they replied with a mass email that basically said, ¨Relax! Once you get here, everything will be fine.¨And for the most part, they were right.

Conversing in Spanish definitely proved tough at first, especially since everyone speaks (in my eyes) as if they´re being paid on a words-per-minute basis. Pero durante el mes pasado, mi español ha mejorado mucho. (¨But during the past month, my Spanish has improved greatly.¨) Although the native-speakers´conversations still confuse me often, I am able to more or less converse when spoken to without losing too much in translation. Also, during my after-school English classes, I´ve surprised myself with my ability to say things in English and then translate them rather accurately into Spanish. It´s like learning and teaching simultaneously – killing dos aves with one stone.

And teaching rocks. School started on October 1st, and it’s been an incredible first month. Most of the auxiliares (the title for people doing my program) work Monday-Thursday, but I work Tuesday-Friday, arising daily between 6:00-6:30 a.m. That´s right: I, Nocturnal Sam, have been waking up at the crack of middle-age-normal-o’clock and leaving for the metro around 7:30.

The Spanish public transportation system is a godsend. I ride three different subway lines a single stop each before arriving at the Moncloa bus station in the northwest section of Madrid. From there, the 8:00 a.m. bus takes me to Alpedrete, 35-40 minutes northwest of the city. The ride to Alpedrete feels like something out of a movie — breathtaking vistas (views) of sunrise over the Pedriza mountain range, cada día (every day). My morning bus rides allow me to think, read, and write, and to practice my Spanish with other teachers from my school.

My school — C.E.I.P. Santa Quiteria — educates children of pre-school and elementary-school ages. I teach two different classes of fourth-graders once a week each and two classes of five-year-olds twice a week each, but I spend the majority of my time with two different classes of third-graders. The third-graders speak English the best because they have been in the bilingual program for three years now, the fourth-graders missed the chance to enter the program by a year. (If only their parents could´ve waited a little longer.)

With the students, my friend Justin — the other auxiliar — and I speak English exclusively. Most of the kids have no idea that we can understand them. In some ways, it would be great to speak Spanish with them, but then they wouldn´t be forced to use their English with us.

With the teachers, we speak Spanish … except for the times when we teach them swear words, toilet humor, sexual innuendos and other tidbits of American vocabulary that must be understood by any English-speaker-to-be. (More to come on these conversations in a subsequent post.)

Right now, I want to post this so people have some idea what I´m up to, in general, across the Atlantic. Stay tuned to the Life in Spain section for updates about more specific and exciting adventures.

Coming full circle: Why did Javi say to me, “Now you are Spanish!” the other night?

I’m not sure, but it probably had something to do with the fact that the adjustment phase has transitioned into a new one, one of assimilation — poco a poco. Every day that passes here makes me feel a bit more comfortable, a bit less like a tourist, a bit closer to understanding this not-so-foreign land.

Will I ever be truly Spanish? Of course not. Too much American blood courses through these veins, and I’m more interested in being a citizen of the world than swearing by one flag or another.

Still, hearing those words — “Now you are Spanish!” — at a bar whose name means “Mother Doesn’t Know,” dancing among strangers who welcomed me into their midst, enjoying the moment without a thought to past or future … I can’t really describe it.

But it felt damn good.

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Don’t be a stranger now, y’hear?

“Don’t talk to strangers.”

Bet you’ve heard that one before. Who hasn’t?

From an early age, we’re instructed to avoid unfamiliar people. Don’t look at them, don’t get in a car with them, don’t walk down an alley with them — not even if they have candy. Especially if they have candy.

Well, forget that.

Talk to strangers. Seriously. Shake their hands, hear their stories, and enjoy the little quirks that make them “them.” It’s not such a strange thing to do.

This blogumn began as notebook scribble in Kansas City International Airport. As I sat in the fast-food court, watching planes go by on the Tarmac, I reflected on how I got there: More than 3,000 miles of Amtrak train travel … and a man named Jim Wells.

On Saturday, May 15, I embarked on a 12-day journey across the country and back. Starting at Philadelphia’s 30th Street Station, I stopped at Union Station in the nation’s capital before heading to another Union Station in Chicago.

Sometime before Pittsburgh, I entered the train’s dining car. “Reservation for one.” They sat me “community style” with — gasp! — strangers. My first encounter of the human kind involved Mike and Angie, a married couple from Great Britain. ‘Twas bloody lovely.

When we got to Chicago on the 16th, I met some people from South Jersey, my home turf. At a hat embroidery store I once visited while applying for colleges, the charming hat embroiderer, Tully, helped me design a “Keep It Movin” hat at Navy Pier. After sharing its meaning with her, I kept it movin’ myself.

At 3:15 that afternoon, I boarded the “Southwest Chief,” heading non-stop for Los Angeles. The longest leg of my journey, we’d cover 2,256 miles in 41 hours. And I would love every minute of it.

As we crossed the Mississippi River, I started talking to a guy from Missouri.  We passed by a beaver dam, and I told him it reminded me of the time my cousin, Juli, was fly-fishing and got chased by beavers. He told me it reminded him of his uncles who used to harvest marijuana.

Huh?

Long-and-insane story short: He had two uncles who grew pot together in Missouri, and one day the feds tried busting them. The men fled. One escaped by land; the other, by sea. The latter dove into the black, muddy river and swam into a beaver dam, which sufficed as a hiding place … until the beaver came home.

“So he’s sittin’ there in the beaver dam, pokin’ the animal with a sharp stick to keep it away,” my midwestern muchacho told me. “But there was no way in hell he was leavin’ his hideaway. Eventually he swam to shore, and his kid picked him up.” To this day, he proudly stated, his uncles remain free men.

Leave it to beaver, damn.

During the ride, I spent a lot of time with Octavio, a Californian who originally hailed from Mexico, and his two-year-old son, also named Octavio (aka Octavio Dos or Octavio También).

Then I met E-Ro, the only person taking more pictures than my geeky self. I played a song by Silvertide, entitled “California Rain,” for her. “I brought my rain to California,” the lyrics go, “All the way from Philadelphia, PA.” When we arrived in The City of Angels, it rained.

“It’s because you played that song!” E-Ro said. I like to think so.

My last evening in Los Angeles, I met a guy named Arul in a bar. “You’re from New Jersey?” he asked me — a typical let’s-not-be-strangers-anymore question to ask. “Whereabouts?”

“Voorhees,” I replied. “It’s a little town near Cherry Hill … you’ve probably never heard o—”

“Dude!” he interrupted me. “I went to Eastern!”

Eastern — my high school. I traveled 3,000 miles from home to meet someone who owns the same yearbook. Later in the night, we ran into a guy who played ice hockey in our town, and we saw a California license plate that read, “NJFRESH.” Ain’t that strange.

Post-writing note: One day, I received an email from a guy named Wes, who wrote, “I am the guy with the NJFRESH license plate … Just googled (sic) it for the hell of it and your blog came up.”

On Saturday the 22nd, I re-boarded the Southwest Chief and headed for Lamy, New Mexico. I enjoyed a memorable lunch with Jon, a writer/actor/director from L.A. who wore a warm smile and a settling demeanor, and Jean, a petite, young-at-heart lady whose eyes sparkled and who had made about a dozen cross-country train trips in her life. My kind of girl.

At our station stop in Albuquerque, Amanda from Riverside, Calif., shared her French fries and her story with me. I digested both.

At Harry’s Roadhouse in Santa Fé, N.M., I met a retired physicist who studied wolves in the wild, said he had stood a few precarious feet away from them without worrying. “Wolves,” he said, “just don’t attack humans.” Safer than strangers with candy.

On the way to visit my friend Lauren in Lawrence, Kan., I tried focusing intensely on my work — not taking pictures, not daydreaming, not talking to anyone. And that’s how I met Ed Robinson.

I first noticed him preaching The Gospel of Ed to a couple sitting in front of me while I toiled on my manuscript. He initially struck me as a rambling hobo, as strangers often do.

After finishing his sermons on the dangers of fluoridated water, preposterous prescription pharmaceutical prices, and KFC’s supposedly steroid-enhanced chickens, he started walking back toward his sleeping berth. Then he caught sight of me, froze, and watched me typing until I acknowledged him.

“Hi,” I tepidly greeted him.

“What’re you writing?” He nodded at the computer screen.

“I’m actually working on a book,” I said.

“You don’t say. So am I.”

I considered the tall, black man in a University of Michigan hat and matching T-shirt. He could’ve been anywhere from 50 to 80 years old. (He eventually revealed his age but told me, “That’s my secret,” and it’ll stay that way unless Ed feels like telling you, too.)

Ed Robinson is a walking fiction hero in a non-fiction world. He talks and talks, tells you story after story, and you listen and listen, captivated.

He told me about the time he tried photographing a wild rhinoceros in Africa, startled it, and ran away. He claimed his camera had run out of film, so he lacked photographic proof. He did, however, do a terrific rhino impression — grunts and snorts and sniffs and all.

Then he told me about his books-in-progress, his pursuit of a second collegiate degree at his mystery age, and his illustrious career in music. He told me to look up his CD: Ed Robinson, In a Romantic Mood.

Then he recounted his adventures in Europe — Finland, I think — where he said the women are male-hunting Amazons. “Tall!” he motioned with his hand above his head. He described a couple of his exploits with a gleam in his eye and a boyish grin on his face. In a romantic mood, indeed.

The whole time, I wondered: Is this guy for real? He told so many tall tales, I thought about calling him “Aesop.” But his stories contained so many vivid details, and they all fit together into the narrative of his life; I wasn’t sure what to think.

Upon my arrival at Lauren’s in Lawrence, I immediately Googled In a Romantic Mood. There was Ed, on the CD cover, sprawled across a grand piano and donning a yellow suit. He was smiling — at me, it seemed, for doubting him.

While crashing on Lauren in Lawrence’s couch — and fearing for my life because highly-venomous brown recluse spiders had invaded her apartment — I met Morris, Shelby, and a number of other town locals. As they say in Almost Famous, “We’re just real Topeka people, man.” Except they’re real Lawrence people, but you get the point.

I survived the evening without a spider bite and, the following morning, rode the Southwest Chief one last time to Union Station in Kansas City, Mo. Now that I’ve visited one in D.C., Chicago, L.A. and K.C., I’ve decided that Union Station must have the most original name since Bob Smith.

At “Generic Station,” a major problem confronted me: How would I get from there to Kansas City International Airport, more than a half-hour away?

The solution: Jim Wells.

Upon exiting the Southwest Chief at Union Station IV, I talked to the Amtrak information lady. “How do I get from here to the airport? Is there a shuttle?”

Her look said, “Oh boy, are you screwed.” Her mouth said, “No, there’s no shuttle. I suppose you could take a taxi, but that’s going to cost you. It’s like 25, 30 miles from here.”

Fudge. I walked toward the station exit, prepared for a billion-dollar cab ride. Then I heard a voice.

“I can take you to the airport, if you want.”

I wheeled around. A thin, older man stood before me. He had sparse, salt-and-pepper hair — more salt than pepper — with a matching mustache and silver eyeglasses. He wore a plain, gray T-shirt and light khaki shorts.

A complete and total stranger.

My previous life experiences and mental conditioning told me not to trust him, to be wary, to take the bank-busting taxi. But the man had kind eyes and ‘a real Topeka person’ tone.

“I saw you talking to the lady,” he said. “You’re trying to get to the airport?”

“Yeah …”

“I don’t mind taking you, as long as you don’t mind my dog coming along for the ride. I don’t have anything important to be doing the rest of the morning.”

Everything in me screamed, “Don’t do it, you moron. He’s a stranger — he can’t be trusted!” If I was a cat person, the dog would’ve been the deal-breaker.

Exercising caution, I told him I wanted to investigate my cab and shuttle options first. He said that was fine and even helped the process along.

The closest shuttle had just taken off from Kennedy Space Center. The taxi driver asked if I wanted to take out a loan.

Back to the stranger. “You’re sure you don’t mind taking me?” I asked him. “I feel bad putting you out like that.”

“No,” he shook his head, “I really don’t have anything important to do this morning.”

He had stuffed his hands in his short pockets, which I studied; if he was hiding a gun in them, it was the smallest gun ever made.

“Alright,” I said, “let’s go to the airport.”

And so we did. I walked with him to his car — pretty sure it was a stylish, new Volkswagen — where his peaceful puppy, Harley, panted in the back seat. We put my belongings in the trunk and started driving. My nerves remained on edge.

“I’m Sam.” I said, closing the door.

“I’m Jim Wells,” he said as we shook hands. “It’s nice to meet you, Sam.”

I texted my dad in case I was about to end up in a ditch somewhere, something along the lines of, “Hey I’m going to the airport from the train station in a car with a man named Jim Wells. If you don’t hear from me within an hour, call the cops.”

The farther we drove, though, the less I worried. Jim said he was 76 years old, a retired physician. He started telling me all kinds of information about Kansas City, a lovely place. Did you know that there’s a Kansas City in Missouri and Kansas? I didn’t, but I do now, thanks to Jim.

Once we started passing highway signs for KCI Airport, I said to myself, “Self: I don’t think this guy has any intentions of chopping you into little pieces or selling you into sex slavery.”

And of course, he didn’t. When we arrived at the airport, Jim refused to even take the money I offered him for gas. We exchanged contact information, and I headed off to my gate.

Ten minutes later, my phone started ringing. “Jim Wells,” the caller info screen read.

“Hey Jim, what’s up?”

“Hey Sam. I was just wondering — how much did they charge you to check your bag?”

I laughed. “I had to take a few things out to get it close to 50 pounds, so it was just $25. It would’ve been an extra $75 if it had been overweight.”

“Oh good,” he said, “I was worried about that. Well, have a safe trip and stay in touch!”

Smiling to myself because of the leap of faith we both had taken — for he risked as much by taking me as I did by riding with him, if not more — I resigned to keep talking to strangers. I met a number of people during the ride home, and the experience taught me that the more you break the ‘stranger‘ barrier, the friendlier a place the world becomes. Something about the effort you expend to meet and understand another person takes you out of your own, isolated microcosm and back into the crazy carnival of Life.

Are there ‘bad’ strangers? Of course. Just as there are bad friends, bad family members and bad spouses. People are people — some are good, some are bad, and all are different. But when you keep to yourself, every stranger seems bad, or at least suspicious. Open up, and you’ll often reveal the good in them. All the people I met on my trip — all the conversations, interactions and moments we shared — enriched my journey. If I had never allowed myself to get to know those individuals, if we had remained mutual outsiders, my trip would not have been close to what it was.

Jim Wells taught me that.

I still don’t know exactly what made him offer to drive an unkempt, bearded stranger to the airport, 30 miles out of his way. I don’t think Jim knew why he did it, either.

“I guess it’s because somebody once helped me out like this in Greece,” he said before we parted ways.

My guess is that he just felt like helping out a fellow human being, meeting someone new, and sharing perspectives on life. Maybe even making a friend.

And why not? Stranger things have happened.

Contact Sam Rosenthal at samrose24@gmail.com

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